Simone Moro’s achievements within high-altitude mountaineering are matched only by his feats of bravery. A veteran of 15 winter expeditions, he is the only alpinist to have completed four 8,000m ascents in winter, on Shisha Pangma (8027m) in 2005, Makalu (8485m) in 2009, Gasherbrum II (8035m) in 2011 and Nanga Parbat (8126m) in 2016. And, in 2001, he abandoned his own attempt of the Everest-Lhotse Traverse, to save English climber, Tom Moores who was stuck on the west face of Lhotse. He endured horrific conditions in darkness, on his own with an extremely high risk of avalanche and without supplementary oxygen. Furthermore, as the first European helicopter pilot qualified to fly in Nepal, he has also completed numerous rescue operations from the air – including taking part in the highest long-line rescue at 7,800m on Everest in 2013.
However, his climbing career actually started on rock in the Bergamasque Alps in his native Italy at the tender age of 13. He continues to rock climb, with up to 8b+ on rock and M11 mixed, and an equivalent standard on ice – but it is his success as an expedition climber which has sculpted his legendary reputation.
When he’s not climbing mountains or flying his helicopter, he’s parachuting or wing-suit skydiving. He’s an author of five books about lessons learned and experiences enjoyed in the mountains.